All sports have their rivalries, but few are as fierce as a cross-town derby in European soccer (also known as a derbí in Spanish). During my time studying abroad in the Seville, I was lucky enough to experience the atmosphere surrounding the city’s derbí.
Seville is home to two storied soccer clubs: Sevilla Football Club and Real Betis Balompié. Both have existed for well over 100 years, meaning generations of seviallanos have been born and raised in either Betis’ green or Sevilla’s red.
This iteration of the rivalry (the 142nd meeting between the two) was hosted by Sevilla FC at their stadium in the Nervion neighborhood. The area around the stadium was dominated by Sevilla fans beginning hours before the match, showing their support with jerseys, flags, scarves, and even pyrotechnics.
Ninety minutes before kickoff, a few hundred Sevilla supporters belonging to the group Biris Norte began their traditional march to the match. The group’s name references their usual position at the north end of the stadium, and they are considered ultras, or especially organized and active fans.
These two mounted policemen were part of an extensive police presence deployed near the stadium to keep the peace between fans. Visiting Betis supporters were restricted to a designated section, and were protected by a double layer of barricades and police prior to entering the stadium.
Being on the job didn’t prevent the police from enjoying the cultural tradition that is the game, however. Take as example the officer standing between the vans, who paused for a moment to record a video of the march of Biris Norte fans.
There is no denying the ferocious nature of the rivalry, and there have been occasional instances of violence in the past. Fortunately, the police are a calming presence, allowing families and fans of all ages to feel comfortable attending the match.
It is important, however, to not mistake the age of many younger supporters for a lack of passion. This group of children led a crowd of hundreds in chanting and singing for an entire half hour prior to the match.
A couple hours later, the Sevilla fans went home happy, with Dodi Lukebakio’s 50th minute penalty goal carrying them to a 1-0 victory. They will hold the bragging rights over their green-clad neighbors for at least a couple of months… until the two meet again next March.